Underlying reasons most frequent in dealing with soiling problems:
- C hanging the dog's meal schedule, as this has direct repercussions on the time that the dog will relieve himself. Ex: feeding the dog near bedtime, and having to take him outside when you have already gone to bed.
- Punishing the dog when he does his business in front of the master, which results in the dog being afraid of defecating in his presence.
- The master's absence when the dog defecates. It is then impossible to know if the dog has actually defecated. Example: The master lets the dog go out alone then lets him in, thinking that the dog has defecated when in fact, he hasn't.
- Letting the dog hold it in until he can no longer do so.
Closing remarks concerning soiling
Observe your puppy after he awakens, and after meals. Your companion is looking for a place to do his business. If he starts going around in circles, sniffing the ground, or crouching down in the house, immediately activate the spray collar. When the puppy is startled and reacts by jumping up, pick him up quickly, and place him in the exact spot where he is supposed to defecate. When he defecates at the proper place, congratulate him heartily. At the beginning of his education, you can add a treat to the praise.
Have a regular schedule: A fixed schedule allows you to determine when the dog is hungry, and consequently, when you are going to integrate the education periods in your schedule, including times for defecation.
Always pick up the bowl of food fifteen minutes after the beginning of the meal, whether the dog has finished his bowl or not. The schedule should include a morning outing, before and after the meal, as well as when you come home from work, after supper, and before bed. A stable routine allows the dog's metabolism to stabilize itself. Seeing as all dogs don't defecate at the same time, keep track of your own dog's rhythm, and let him out at opportune times. The key to success lies in the "meal-defecation" routine, stable, seven days a week.
